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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. But, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.